WITH GREAT POWER COMES great sartorial responsibility. And U.S. President Barack Obama shouldered it ably during his recent India visit, with a dapper yet understated look befitting both his optimism on Asia and sober political and economic realities back home. In the post-downturn world, men’s clothing has an air of quietude—the fashion equivalent of confidence-building measures, one might say. “The power look in vogue was reflected in what Obama was seen wearing,” says Sanjay Kapur, CEO of Genesis Colors, the Indian partner of the likes of Canali and Bottega Veneta.

J. J. Valaya, one of India’s best known fashion designers, says many Indian businessmen take their cues from the world’s most powerful man. “Often politics and business inspire each other sartorially. But in India, politicians don’t wear suits, while businessmen do. So they look to the source of business: America.”

Valaya argues that Obama’s influence runs deep: “His style and approach have special relevance here. He’s been thrown in at the deep end from day one. His style in many ways reflects what many businessmen feel—embattled, working out new ways every day to solve new problems, problems unprecedented in their scale. And it’s a serious, masculine look which the C-Suite loves.”

Power dressing in tough times need not have the dramatic flourish of Winston Churchill in his unfortunate zippered siren suit, designed for the well-dressed gentleman who wouldn’t be seen dead in his pyjamas during an air raid. Today’s look is low key and classic. Kapur draws a broad-brush sketch of the season: “sharp tailoring in cool colourways for a modern, metropolitan look, or more rounded silhouettes in warm tones permeated by a vintage aristocratic feel.”

Raghavendra Rathore, scion of the erstwhile royal family of Jodhpur and one of India’s foremost designers, says suits this season are lightweight wool with fitted, not drooping, shoulders. If the look is Indian, the lines are straight—think fitted black bandhgalas, and pocket squares of dark blue or burgundy silk. Anything blingy or eclectic will look loud and circusy.

“The downturn has resulted in a cleansing of the system,” says Rathore. “The serious players are going back to the classics. Look at the armholes of Obama’s jackets: they’re high and fitted. Gone are the loose, drapey cuts that flowed in the time of easy money. Clothes in sober colours, cut to fit neatly and close to the body, give a sense of purpose and cleanness. The severity of the cut is almost European—nothing is loose or embellished.” He adds: “The disappearance of pleated pants—that’s a relief!”

“It’s the look of a once unflappable world that’s suddenly feeling vulnerable,” says Mumbai-based Pradeep Hirani, founder of the fashion retail chain that sells the Kimaya and Ayamik brands. “In this climate, people think: ‘I want 30% more value for my rupee.’ It translates into a look that speaks of power and wealth, but sombrely.”

Rathore says that fabrics have become simpler: “The age of blends and polyester is over. Many lightweight wools are ideal for well cut suits.”

Canali’s Milano collection sets the tone for the season, with the austerity of its greys, blacks and blues broken only occasionally by petrol green or vintage burgundy. Sleeves and lapels are narrow and high-set, and trousers are nicely tapered. Ermenegildo Zegna is doffing its cappello to the “real men and gentlemen wearing flannel”, with monochromatic colours.

Even the übersexual Tom Ford has gone quiet, his Mountbatten suit in grey and black wool silk invoking Raj genteelness. The shoes are understated dark brown French brogues. Then there’s E. Tautz, founded in 1867 and couturier to the monarchs and military elite of Europe. Today, customers look for 8-ply cashmere sweaters and wool peacoats.

In footwear, the ideal choice is Goodyear welted shoes that can be easily resoled—a thrifty feature befitting the times. The places to look are G.J. Cleverly, London, and Milan-based Silvano Lattanzi. Unpretentious watches are in vogue as well. Obama’s 6500 Chronograph Commemorative Edition timepiece from Jorg Gray is a good example. For those unfazed by frugality, power dressing is, after all, about the mood and not about the labels.

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