India's luxury proposition: Taking its jewellery craftsmanship global

For generations, India's jewellery has been associated with weddings, heirlooms and the elaborate ornaments passed down through generations. But beyond the heavy gold necklaces and ceremonial pieces lies a much larger, almost unseen, story: one of craftsmanship, design traditions and artisanal skills that have the potential to give India a distinct place in the global luxury market.

At a time when international luxury houses are increasingly looking towards India for consumers, collaborations and inspiration, homegrown jewellery brands believe the country has something equally valuable to offer in return.

"India is poised to emerge as a preferred global partner for the jewellery industry," opines Kirit Bhansali, chairman, GJEPC, adding that the country offers a unique amalgamation of manufacturing scale, skilled craftsmanship, world-class infrastructure, along with technology adoption and design capabilities as the cherry on top.

From Jaipur's gemstone cutting expertise and centuries-old Kundan-Meena work to Amrapali's revival of temple and tribal jewellery, India's advantage lies in its ability to create pieces that carry a cultural identity while adapting to contemporary tastes.

For Samir Kasliwal, partner and third-generation at Jaipur-based Gem Palace, the appeal of Indian jewellery among international consumers is already evident. Established in 1852, the eight-generation family business has clients across the world, including the US and the Middle East. Traditional Indian jewellery, particularly Kundan-Meena, continues to attract Western customers who find its techniques and detailing distinctive.

"They appreciate a lot in the West our traditional jewellery. You'll find it fascinating to see how much they get attracted by this kind of work, especially around the Kundan-Meena, because it's unusual for them to see in the US," says Kasliwal.

Much of this appeal comes from the human skill involved in making the pieces. A significant part of Gem Palace's jewellery remains handmade, with artisans and their families having worked with the business across generations. Some bespoke creations can take five to six months to complete. The company also works with traditional stone-cutting techniques inherited from previous generations. Jaipur, meanwhile, is a major centre for gemstone processing, with Kasliwal estimating that around 80% of the world's emeralds are cut in the city.

Bhansali believes that India's strength lies in blending generations of traditional expertise with modern manufacturing, innovation, CAD-led design and advanced technologies. It will enhance the country's ability to deliver quality, creativity and value across jewellery categories. 

Craftsmanship needs a contemporary identity

However, taking Indian jewellery to a wider audience does not necessarily mean exporting traditional designs in their existing form. The opportunity lies in making indigenous techniques relevant to modern consumers without losing their character.

Gem Palace, for instance, has begun reinterpreting traditional designs into more wearable formats for international customers. Classic Navratna earrings, traditionally made in larger sizes, are being adapted into studs, while the brand is seeing growing interest in white gold and Victorian-inspired designs that combine Indian motifs with European influences.

A similar approach has shaped Amrapali's evolution over five decades. The Jaipur-based jewellery house has revived styles such as temple and tribal jewellery while adapting its collections to changing consumer preferences. Tarang Arora, CEO of Amrapali, says the balance between tradition and modernity is central to the brand's approach.

"The jewellery has to be traditional, no matter how modern you want to get it or make it. And then there are bits where people want to be modern. There are bits where people want things to have the Indian touch and have the modern feel," he says.

Amrapali, which describes itself as the country's largest exporter of fashion jewellery, has received the highest export recognition for 13 to 14 years, according to Arora. Its engagement with international markets has also helped the company understand changing tastes and anticipate trends.

But the bigger challenge for Indian luxury is not merely finding international buyers. It is getting consumers to assign the same value to Indian craftsmanship that they readily associate with established global brands.

"When an Indian clientele is purchasing jewellery from an Indian brand or an Indian jewellery player, they are always looking at the gold pricing, the making. That you never ask when you walk into a Cartier or a Bulgari," says Arora. "We need to also appreciate, understand and think about Indian craftsmanship as important and give it as much weightage as we do international craftsmanship or international branding."

For Kasliwal, exclusivity and personalisation are equally important. Clients increasingly seek one-of-a-kind pieces rather than designs that can be easily replicated. At Gem Palace, the owners remain directly involved in understanding requirements and guiding customers through the making of bespoke jewellery.

There is also a question of preserving the skills that make this proposition possible. Kasliwal says Gem Palace is considering a school of Minakari to encourage younger artisans to continue the craft, recognising that traditional skills could weaken as the next generation moves towards other professions.

Arora, meanwhile, believes handcrafted jewellery could become even more valuable as technology and automation advance.

"The more tech and AI and automation we go towards, the more importance of handcraftsmanship, more importance of what is made with a soul, made with a purpose, made with a thought process, not by a computer but by a human being," he says.

GJEPC is of the stance that with dedicated jewellery parks, a strong skill-development ecosystem and an expanding network of Free Trade Agreements opening preferential access to key international markets, India is strengthening its position in the global jewellery value chain. "Our ambition is not just to manufacture for the world, but to become a global hub for jewellery design, innovation and value addition," says Bhansali. 

For Indian jewellery to command a larger place in global luxury, heritage alone will not be enough. It will need sustained investment in artisans, original design and brand-building. The raw material is already there. The task is to make the world recognise its value.