Prada’s Kolhapuri twist: Indian footwear finds new life on Milan runway

/ 2 min read
Summary

For years, Western designers have incorporated elements of India into their collections on global runways.

The footwear’s look and feel are undeniably reminiscent of the handmade chappals from Kolhapur, Maharashtra.
The footwear’s look and feel are undeniably reminiscent of the handmade chappals from Kolhapur, Maharashtra. | Credits: Prada Instagram

Once again, the influence of Indian craftsmanship has made its way onto a Western runway. When Prada unveiled its Men's SS26 collection, the global fashion world couldn't help but admire the stunning looks showcased by the handsome models. But for many Indians, one particular detail stole the spotlight—a pair of Kolhapuri-style chappals, unmistakably marked with Prada's logo.

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The footwear’s look and feel are undeniably reminiscent of the handmade chappals from Kolhapur, Maharashtra, and they looked effortlessly chic on the Prada runway. For those familiar with the style, it’s clear: these are Kolhapuri-inspired sandals. While some on social media are debating whether Prada acknowledges the connection, the fact remains that there’s no mistaking it.

A few hours earlier, Louis Vuitton’s menswear creative designer Pharell Williams unleashed a full-scale display of Indian colours including a snake and ladder themed runway, Punjabi bhangra songs when he presented the SS26 showing in Paris.

For years, Western designers have incorporated elements of India into their collections on global runways in cities like New York, London, Milan, and Paris. One iconic example was Karl Lagerfeld’s Metiers d’Arts show for Chanel, where the designer didn’t just borrow an Indian motif but transformed the entire Grand Palais in Paris into a royal Indian palace. The collection was filled with elements inspired by India—something Prada did in a more subtle, singular way this time around.

Designers from the West have long been inspired by Indian traditions and crafts. Some, like Jean Paul Gaultier, have an ongoing love affair with Banarasi silks. Yves Saint Laurent was drawn to the paisley designs from India, while John Galliano often incorporated Indian elements into his creations. British designers like Paul Smith, Zegna, and Armani have embraced the Bandhgala as part of their menswear lines, and Mathew Williamson is known for incorporating Jodhpuris and intricate zari work.

A particularly memorable moment came when Hermès showcased sari-inspired designs in one of their collections, and Stella McCartney, daughter of the legendary Paul McCartney, made khadi a central element in her sustainable fashion collections. Dutch designer Dries Van Noten was inspired by the colours and energy of Holi during his visit to Kolkata, which he translated into his Spring/Summer collection. Dior and Louboutin, too, have regularly drawn from Indian culture for their designs.

Not every designer feels the need to openly credit their sources of inspiration. Lagerfeld made his Indian influences glaringly obvious, while Ralph Lauren subtly showcased Indian Madras checks. Cristóbal Balenciaga left no doubt about the Indian inspiration behind Elizabeth Taylor’s iconic sari gown.

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And now, Prada has brought Kolhapuri chappals to the global stage. So, let’s celebrate this beautiful fusion of cultures and carry that joyful image forward!

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