Are lab-grown diamonds really as sustainable as they claim to be?

There is something absolutely fantastic about owning an authentic diamond that is born naturally in the deep bowels of earth over millennia. Big or small, a natural diamond has such a deep-rooted appeal to our sensibilities that, somehow, a lab-grown diamond, created over a couple of weeks, despite its glitter or size, doesn’t quite cut it.

It's this intangible thing, this symbiotic connection with Nature, and the knowledge that it’s the real thing. You wouldn’t give a mass-produced clone to your daughter for her wedding…Right?

The claim, by some, that factory-grown diamonds are sustainable is still subject of debate. Even today, despite their years of being around, we are inclined to look askance at lab-grown diamonds for their credibility as sustainable products.

India and China have long been reputed for their veneration for the natural world, as also the intrinsic intertwining and synergy between all things on Earth and beyond. This stimulated sustainable practices long ahead of our contemporary engagement with the term “sustainability”. In the light of this, it comes as quite a surprise to learn that both these countries are very big on lab-grown diamonds, the production of which is largely reliant on electricity from grid/coal powered sources. According to the Diamond Facts Report, over 70% of laboratory-grown diamonds are mass-produced in China and India where 62% and 74% of grid electricity is generated from coal.

A game-changing ethic unfolds in consumerism

Once considered a niche curiosity, ethical consumerism has been galvanized into a movement which is leaving its impress across consumer markets worldwide. Leading the brigade of activists for more sustainable lifestyle choices have been none other than the millennials and Gen Zs, who in response to rising concerns of climate change and the health of Planet Earth are veering towards more sustainability, integrity and greater transparency in their purchasing experiences.

The seismic shift in consumer behaviour is making ripples in the luxury market as well. It’s quite evident in luxury items such as diamonds, where the stakes are very high when it comes to trust and loyalty. Authentic natural diamonds are worth every Carat! This is where transparency plays a pivotal role for the conscientious consumer. The very embodiment of luxury, wealth and prestige— natural diamonds are coveted for their preciousness as generational heirlooms and long-term value.

Lab-grown vs natural diamonds—A greenwashing conundrum

The surging advent of lab-grown diamonds in recent years has resulted in blurring the lines by the glitter and greenwashing by some unethical organizations. We are witnessing a lot of hype in the diamond market about the sustainability of lab-grown diamonds by organizations making questionable claims about eco-friendly practices; misinformation or bad data continues to play a pivotal role in misleading consumers about their environmentalism. While navigating the market realities of ‘going green’, consumers must tread with care. The appropriate approach should be to remain alert and not readily succumb to a false sense of sustainability, or buy into environmentalist myths of these.

It would be to the advantage of consumers if they made an effort to research the brands thoroughly for their ethical values such as sustainability, fair practices, and social responsibility. This would go a long way in helping them make informed choices between lab-grown diamonds and natural diamonds.

If one were to choose to purchase a lab-grown diamond, which mimics the appearance of a genuine diamond, authenticating the claim that it has been created with sustainable norms is a weighty matter. Neither would it be beneficial to just accept at face value the claim that laboratory grown diamonds always have a low, neutral or even negative carbon footprint and are therefore always more sustainable than natural diamonds.

Now more than ever it is time for diamond brands to step up and help consumers discern between what’s green and what’s greenwashing.

An important move, in response to the concerns about this growing trend, has been made by the U.S. Federal Trade Commission (FTC) with a global crackdown on greenwashing across key markets for diamond jewellery. The Commission warns synthetic-diamond companies that it could take punitive action against any campaigns that claim products are “eco-friendly,” “eco-conscious,” or “sustainable” without specific evidence.

Production sources

At the outset, the most compelling factor to take into consideration is the source and methodology of production of the diamond we are looking to purchase.

Natural diamonds, a product in finite supply, take billions of years to form only in limited zones of the Earth’s mantle where vaulting temperatures swing up to 1000 degrees centigrade and pressures leap as high as 50 kilobars. Lab-grown diamonds, on the other hand, have a much speedier turn out as they can be made in weeks, or even days—and in limitless numbers. Also, lab-grown diamonds follow two main methods of production: High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) and Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD). The manufacturing process, lasting several weeks, is energy-intensive, requiring temperatures similar to 20% of that of the Sun’s surface.

There are consumers out there who are under the assumption that laboratory grown diamonds don’t involve mining so they must be sustainably produced. That’s where they go wrong in their thinking. It’s because the HPHT method of manufacturing involves the use of mined graphite and the CVD method uses high-purity methane sourced from gas, coal, and oil drilling.

Sustainable purchases

When you buy a natural diamond, its provenance is the first step in establishing that your diamond was mined responsibly. At every step of a natural diamond’s journey—from pure carbon to a priceless, glittering miracle of nature, there are checks and balances against the highest possible ethical and sustainable standards in the entire supply chain.

Most natural-diamond mining companies are publicly listed to show their rare gems are ethically sourced and conflict-free. The pivot towards keeping the fragile environment safe and intact for posterity is supported by recycling 83% of the water and maximising reclamation of waste on site.The natural diamond industry is highly proactive in safeguarding the biodiversity covering an area 4 times larger in size than the land it uses. Reducing its carbon footprint and protecting biodiversity is its unified agenda to decarbonizing in line with global climate targets.

The laboratory-grown diamond companies that transparently disclose or verify data on their exact carbon footprint are few and far between. Even then there is no single figure which remains as a benchmark…that’s because there are far too many variables involved, including the production methods, the region and the methodology used to calculate the footprint.

That said, the diamond market has been witnessing the emergence of a small number of lab-grown diamond brands who are making a concerted effort to opt for renewable energy sources with little, or zero, residue of emissions and are truly green/eco-friendly. With a bit of time and effort consumers can review their provenance to make a satisfactory purchase.

There are professional verification tools available that allow one to detect the differences in growth patterns between natural diamonds (that are formed deep within the Earth between 1 billion to 3 billion years ago) and synthetic diamonds, manufactured in sometimes less than a fortnight.

An indescribable value in rarity

Though lab-grown diamonds may be less expensive (According to analyst Paul Ziminisky, a 1.5 carat lab-grown diamond in 2016 went for $10, 600, but in early 2023 dropped to $2, 445), there’s no denying the wonderment of holding that rare natural diamond gifted to you by Mother Earth.

Expensive they might be (According to a study by Bain & Co, over the last 35 years, natural diamonds have appreciated in price by an approximate average of 3% each year) but there aren’t that many around as the supply is limited. Natural diamonds are a legacy that you will be proud to own and happy to pass on to your coming generations.

At the end of the day, be it natural diamonds or lab-grown diamonds, it boils down to the consumers to choose what ultimately works best for them. We give you the facts, you make the choice.

For additional information about diamonds, please visit www.onlynaturaldiamonds.in

(Articles under 'Fortune India Exchange' are either advertorials or advertisements. Fortune India's editorial team or journalists are not involved in writing or producing these pieces.)