Paraben, Sulphate—just what to avoid in personal care products

Sweta Singh knows that shopping for even reasonably affordable chemical-free skincare and haircare products can be a daunting experience. Singh—a Bengaluru-based media professional—spends a lot of time searching for personal care products that are typically chemical-free. “Using natural ingredient based products is my way of doing my small bit towards reducing the carbon footprint,” she says.

“Ingredients like sulphur and lead are harmful for the skin and hair in the long run. So why not substitute them with products that are made out of natural ingredients or at least free from harmful chemicals,” says forty-year-old Singh, who doesn’t mind shelling out a few hundred rupees extra to get a good product.

Singh is not alone in her struggle. Most consumers find it hard to search for personal care products that are pocket-friendly but high in quality and free from harmful chemicals.

According to dermatologists, there are multiple brands in the market that claim to be natural, organic, cruelty-free, ethically sourced, and 100% plant or botanical-based with no preservatives and non-synthetic. But how and where a product is sourced is key to deducing just how harmful, or helpful, it really is.

Dr Smriti Naswa Singh, consultant dermatologist and cosmetic dermatologist at Fortis Hospital in Mulund, Mumbai is a staunch critic of paraben, a known endocrine disruptor. Paraben typically interferes with hormonal systems increasing estrogen production in the body leading to excessive breast [cancer] cell growth. Another chemical that should be avoided is sulphate, which disrupts the skin barrier causing irritation. Sulphate impacts the pH balance [acid-base balance] in the skin. Synthetic fragrances should also be avoided as they are known allergens.

“I would suggest consumers stay away from sulphate-based products. It should also be paraben-free. Try to avoid fragrance and colour-based products for daily skin and hair care. With regard to the key ingredients used in a product consumer should always check the first five ingredients of the list because that is typically 80% of the product,” says Dr Singh, adding that a patch test [a diagnostic method to determine which substance is causing allergic inflammation] is a good way to know what to avoid in a product.

According to Dr Singh, among good natural ingredients are shea butter, cocoa butter, oats, and mulberry. “Earthen clay or multani mitti is very good for the skin. Especially in this pandemic, we have to wear masks most of the time which is causing mask acne. Multani mitti is a good solution for clearing clogged pores and tackling the mask acne problem.”

Since the Covid-19 pandemic struck early last year, there has been a rapid affinity among consumers for natural and organic-based products including cosmetics, skin and hair products, and dental care. Naturally, both established and newer players are looking to leverage this growing consumer need.

Notes Freya D'Souza, Vice President - Strategy, Dentsu Webchutney, a national creative agency, and a passionate advocate of organic products, "While there is a growing consumer penchant for natural products, there's little education to back that. Brand and product promotions therefore deliberately blur the line between natural and organic. For example, a product can be classified as natural but be made from genetically modified organism (GMO) ingredients. Social media, therefore, has become both the place to discover new homegrown organic care brands as well as call out brands that seek to profit from a lack of consumer information."

Industry experts point out that in the last two years there has been a mushrooming of homegrown brands and startups in the cosmetic and personal care market in India. These brands are leveraging an organic product line that is suitable for Indian skin types and hair.

Abneesh Roy, executive director, institutional equities, Edelweiss Securities says it is an exciting segment but pricing will be key. “India is a value-focused market and premium pricing will make it a niche segment. Most of them will get the bulk of their sales from digital channels and possibly modern trade. Ultimately these startups will be either bought out by larger consumer companies or get replaced by them,” adds Roy.

The time seems ripe for the market to celebrate, and reward, authentic beauty. Finally.