Sabyasachi at 25: Weaving India’s soul into global fashion

Since his early days, Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s raison d’être seems to be doing the opposite of what fashion conventions demand: while the rest of his fraternity chose more fashionably viable cities like Mumbai and Delhi, he chose to remain in Kolkata, his home; he is somewhat inaccessible to members of the media, and the public in general; he is seldom seen at high society soirees or night clubs; he stopped taking part in fashion weeks and seems somewhat reluctant to be a part of the rat race for Paris Couture Week; he has restricted the number of his stores just to five; he never makes made-to measure outfits or custom clothing; and his brand never goes on end of season sales or discounts.

Yet, as he celebrates 25 successful years of his brand in 2025, the internationally known designer is eyeing a whopping Rs 500-crore turnover this fiscal, “provided the market conditions remain favourable”. The designer says that the success of his brand—in which Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Limited holds a 51% stake—came from his firm conviction that it should portray India’s rich cultural heritage. “When I started, I think I was 20 years ahead, but I was resonating with something that was very deep. You see, in India when you used to look at fashion, people’s confidence or their status comes from money,” he tells Fortune India. “But rightfully, for a country like India, the status should have come from culture because we are a very unique country… And like countries with culture—for instance Japan—status comes from culture; it doesn’t come from money.”

With this belief, the designer made sure that India is seen through his collections. “When I did my first fashion show, the models on the runway had reading glasses. There were a lot more Indian textiles. They (the models) had books in their hands,” says Sabyasachi. He adds that members of the press—who were middle class and often thought that “rich had money, but they have knowledge”—found a connect. “I think suddenly the press felt like I was one of them. To a lot of young people in India, [I] was trying to break out and define their position in society with culture,” he says, adding that his brand emerged at the right time and at the right place. “I think it is not just about the clothes, but also the ethos and clarity of the brand that it is culture that will always supersede money when it comes to status.”

Kalyani Chawla, former VP (Marketing & Communications) at Dior India and founder of Rezon Luxury Silverware says Sabyasachi has taken Indian craft global. “His business acumen is as sharp as his creativity. He is the most recognisable Indian brand globally today offering an entire bridal look, giving him a huge share of the wedding business,” she says. “Being a childhood friend from Kolkata, I could not be prouder.”

There are many stories of how the designer has been honest with his clients by talking straight. For instance, one of them says that the wife of a billionaire industrialist was trying on one of his creations at his Mumbai store when he walked up to her and told her that she shouldn’t buy it as it didn’t suit her personality. Ask the couturier about this and this is what he says, “I don’t know what that story is, but I am saying this much: it has always been hard work and honesty because I think when you’re honest, in the short term you make a lot of enemies [since] you sometimes say things people don’t want to hear; but in retrospect, people start admiring you for having singularity of vision. And then they realise that you’re neutral, democratic, and you are the same way with everybody.”

Sabyasachi says he never wanted to be a public figure. “I wanted my brand to be a public figure, but I didn’t want to become a public figure… even today, I find it very uncomfortable when I have to sign autographs or stand for pictures. I like growing my brand and my business,” he says, adding, “A lot has changed in our lives in the last 25 years, but what has not changed for me are my vision, clarity and idealism.” The designer says that even after 25 years, people recognise the brand logo, the Bengal Tiger. “People don’t even know what I look like anymore. And I prefer to keep it like that because this has never been about me. It’s about building a brand for the country, and I feel I feel like I’m just an employee. My job is to deliver a brand to the country. I am of no consequence. That’s what I truly believe in.”

Businesswoman Malvika Poddar says the designer is a creative genius who is very humble and deeply committed. “He never socialises and lets his brand and collections speak for themselves.”

After scoring a glorious quarter century in the business, the designer is looking at expanding his jewellery portfolio and expanding into beauty and fragrances in the coming months. And he hopes to achieve a turnover of $2 billion in the next five years, “provided the market conditions remain favourable”. But for Sabyasachi, who tasted success by going against the grain, anything is possible.