Tastes like a million bucks

THE LEBUA HOTEL IN BANBKOK is hoping to get third time lucky. Thailand’s political instability in recent times made it difficult for it to host the world’s costliest meal on two occasions previously. But come December, Mezzaluna, the restaurant on the 65th floor of the hotel, will serve 10 highfliers at the third edition of the Epicurean Masters of the World. The 10-course dinner, spread over two hours, will leave each guest poorer by $1 million (Rs 4.5 crore) plus taxes, but promises a rich aftertaste.

Back in October 2007, as part of Epicurean Masters of the World II, Mezzaluna hosted 15 guests—no names have been disclosed, but there weren’t any Indian invitees—who coughed up more than $25,000 each. It was dubbed the costliest dinner at the time.

“Many people believe the $1 million dinner will not happen because it has been postponed twice,” says Deepak Ohri, chief executive officer, Lebua Hotels & Resorts. “Last time, there were a lot of sceptics as well, but the $25,000 one did happen.”

Interestingly, a month after Lebua’s $25,000 extravaganza, Serendipity 3, a New York dessert emporium, along with luxury jeweller Euphoria, created Frozen Haute Chocolate—a chocolate sundae priced at the same amount. Twenty-eight varieties of cocoa from around the world were blended and infused with five grams of edible 23-karat gold. It was served in a goblet lined with edible gold, with a gold spoon encrusted with white and chocolate-coloured diamonds, both of which diners could keep as souvenirs.

The $1 million dinner, though, goes beyond diamond-studded gold cutlery. The exotic and precious ingredients sourced from at least 15 countries, as well as the rare wine, make the meal a coveted experience for the worlds’ richest. Sample this: The restaurant is persuading château owners in France to give access to their private cellars for vintages that have never been on sale. The owners would travel with their wine to explain why their offerings are priceless. “This is not easy. The collectors want to know where and how their treasures are going to be served. It takes personal contacts and relationships to convince them to give the finest wines, some of which are more than 300 years old,” says Nishant Yadav, director (food and beverage), The Dome & The Lebua at State Tower.

To begin with, Yadav has procured two 1989 bottles of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti for $20,000 each and is expecting more vintages. The gala dinner will boast at least 10 different wine and champagne, many of which would not be available even at auction houses.

The Mezzaluna is the only Asian restaurant that has served white Almas caviar. This was in 2008-09. There is almost a five-year waiting period between the time of placing your order and procuring small quantities of this rare caviar from 100-year-old sturgeon in the Caspian Sea. The entire produce is a few 100 grams a year. The cost of 10 grams of Almas can be upwards of $2,000. Similarly, Alba truffles, known for their rarity, aroma, and flavour, will also be part of the fare this time.

Vegetables like carrot and cauliflower, and the pré-salé lamb (which is naturally salty because of the grass near the sea), are being sourced directly from farms in France and Spain. And as the menu and dinner date take final shape, other exclusive ingredients will be decided and delivered in time by five Thai suppliers, including Classic Fine Food and Gourmet Food. These suppliers work for other hotels and restaurants too, but for the refined palates of Lebua’s guests, they are willing to walk that extra mile.

“It’s also about showcasing their capabilities and our confidence in taking the risk of ordering fresh ingredients. No other hotel in Asia can afford such ingredients or boast of a supply chain like ours,” says a beaming Yadav. Often, his team gets in touch with producers directly and negotiates prices. Then the team returns to the suppliers, giving them specifications of the product and how they need to bring it to the kitchens. “We ask them to keep their margins and charge it to us, but we insist on providing the details of how the ingredient has to be stored, transported, and delivered,” Yadav adds.

Managing the supply chain is not easy, as one wrong move can have a domino effect. With the chefs at the Lebua insisting on freshness, the suppliers have less than 72 hours to procure, process, package, transport, and deliver. These include herbs and fruit, such as wild strawberries from Spain, that are available for only three to four weeks. Or the high-quality Japanese Yuzu paste (an orange-chilli paste) and Soulard ducks that need to be directly procured from the farm and delivered fresh.

“To retain freshness, we make special arrangements such as climate-controlled sealed compartments that simulate the product’s natural environment,” says Kannikar Yantabutr, general manager, Classic Fine Food. “This is done just for the Lebua chefs, as no one else orders for such ingredients.” Indeed, the suppliers have weekly meetings with the chefs to understand their needs and often spot an ingredient for them to create a new dish.

The real challenge is the wine, for which the angle of the bottle, humidity, and temperature of the cellars have to be controlled till they are served. “The wine is still breathing when it is taken out of the cellar,” says Ohri. “It can get spoilt if taken to a different zone. Even the way it is served might rob it of its real taste and aroma.”

On the previous occasion, the hotel had to convert one of its suites into a wine cellar and install special air conditioning to maintain the right temperature. “We had wine masters monitoring the bottles every half hour, and every wine was tasted before being served,” adds Ohri. This is the same suite where the sequel of the movie The Hangover was filmed, and is now promoted as the Hangover suite.

Ohri knows that an exclusive supply chain for the restaurant as well as the best of chefs come at a premium, and realises the need for loyal customers willing to pay for the experience he is promising. “Of the 15 from the last dinner, I expect to have many repeats and I’m going to personally invite them for this one,” he says.

Why would a big spender take out time and money for the dinner? For one, Ohri will ensure that guests will be thoroughly pampered. And not just with live music and fireworks. His staff are to receive special training about the food and beverages being served, as well as being attentive to guests’ needs to the point of anticipating them. Last time it was the promise of multiple Michelin star chefs preparing the meals and the finest of the wines. This time, Ohri is banking on close friends among Hollywood celebrities to prepare the dinner. Who are these stars? The time has not yet come to disclose their names, Ohri says. Exclusivity will also be preserved by banning cameras and cell phones during the meal.

The guest list might have given India a miss again, but Ohri’s been visiting the country to identify properties to extend Lebua’s dining experience to consumers here. He is eyeing four restaurants and hotels in Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, Kolkata, and Bangalore to partner or set up shop. India’s super-rich can surely stay the course.