When controversy courts fashion runways
ADVERTISEMENT
In recent times there have been a few controversial deployments of crafts or accessories of Indian origin by western luxury brands on their fashion runways.
Whether it was Prada introducing Kolhapuri chappals or a male model wearing a mukaish embroidered coat during a Dior showing a few months back, it did catch the attention of the world along with plenty of not-so-nice comments that erupted in the social media for ‘stealing’ the Indian heritage and not quite attributing the same to its roots.
Latest to join the controversial introduction of ‘Indianness’ to the runway is legendary fashion designer Ralph Lauren when some of his fashion models strutted the Parisian runway with jhumkas (bell-shaped ear accessories) dangling from their ears. The social media is once again abuzz with how the designer used what belonged to India without giving due credits. However, it just begins and ends with the creation of some buzz and seldom gets any results.
India has plenty in jewellery, craft and textiles that it can offer to the world. However, for hundreds of years, these exquisite pieces of work somehow managed to remain within the boundaries of the country, until someone from the West has accidently stumbled upon them and got them the global attention they deserved.
Then there are embroidery specialists who do surface detailing for many western couture brands, some based in India and some in Paris, using traditional work perhaps with a modern twist. But how many of those brands have acknowledged the source or creators of that embroidery? In fact, in most cases, there embroiders and reluctant even to acknowledge the fact that they do the embroidery for these couture brands owing to signing of non-disclosure agreements.
There has been very little or no effort made by those who are supposed to promote them to make them globally known, or even to protect their designs. It always took a Prada, Gucci or, of late Ralph Lauren to bring it to the attention of the world that something like this exist in the world. And the world does take notice when they bring them on to the global fashion runways.
According to Safir Anand, Senior Partner and head of Trademarks, Commercial & Contractual IP at the IP firm Anand & Anand the country needs to strengthen protection mechanisms such as Geographical Indications (GI) and craft certification systems. “Like the government initiatives that focus on safeguarding tribal arts that extend beyond geographic boundaries a similar framework could be expanded to support and protect other culturally significant art forms and traditions.”
When it comes to protection of ancient works, Anand says cultural expressions such as jewellery, traditional forms of embroidery, footwear, etc often exist in a grey area within intellectual property law. “Copyright law safeguards creations that are original not designs that have existed for centuries,” he says. “As a result, much of cultural heritage falls into a legal vacuum -- high in cultural value but insufficiently protected under existing legal frameworks.” Thus, there is little basis for claiming compensation. Anand argues that the focus should instead shift toward practical solutions such as protecting heritage and crafts through certification programmes, encouraging exchange programmes with global luxury houses, and promoting greater attribution through museum-style acknowledgements.
Another strong solution is to have a national legislation in the nature of a National Heritage Law, “where proper consideration is given to Indian luxury, arts, crafts etc and the legislation is prepared taking into account the limitations of time that copyright, design or legislations may have. The government is anyway contemplating having a legislation regarding manuscripts,” he says. “All of these efforts are important because culture travels and inspiration is inevitable.”
Ultimately, the recurring debate over global fashion houses using Indian crafts highlights a deeper issue: the need to move beyond outrage toward meaningful protection and promotion of cultural heritage. India’s rich traditions in jewellery, textiles and craft have long inspired the world, but without stronger legal frameworks, certification systems and clearer attribution, these art forms risk being detached from the communities that created them. As culture inevitably travels and inspires, the challenge lies in ensuring that recognition, respect and protection travel with it.