Prada walks the right path: The Kolhapuri course correction

A few months after Italian luxury house Prada faced backlash for presenting Kolhapuri chappals in its menswear collection without acknowledging either India or the artisans behind the geographically tagged footwear from Kolhapur, the brand now appears ready to correct its course. It is not only giving long overdue recognition, but also plans to sell the sandals with a “Made in India” label. In addition, it is establishing a foundation through which artisans will receive support to strengthen their design and technical skills.

The company says this marks a new chapter in Prada’s “Made In…” project, launched more than a decade ago to celebrate artisanal excellence around the world. The initiative seeks to identify and collaborate with master craftspeople on contemporary and innovative designs that reflect exceptional standards of quality beyond geographical boundaries.

Whatever the positioning, the larger significance is clear. At a time when many couture labels rely heavily on Indian embroidery, and craftsmanship in leather goods and garments through intermediaries, yet rarely acknowledge those contributions while selling garments for vast sums as haute couture, Prada’s decision stands out. By producing limited-edition sandals, crediting both the artisans and the inspiration behind it, and clearly stating its country of origin, the brand has taken a step that is both meaningful and welcome.

As part of the “PRADA Made in India x Inspired by Kolhapuri Chappals” project instituted in December 2025, Prada announced the launch of its limited-edition collection of sandals, inspired by the Indian Kolhapuri chappals, now available globally in 40 selected Prada stores and on Prada.com.

Manufactured by skilled artisans from Maharashtra and Karnataka, where traditional Kolhapuri chappals are handcrafted, the collection combines traditional techniques with Prada’s contemporary design and premium materials to create a unique dialogue between Indian heritage and modern luxury expression.

This collection is developed in collaboration with LIDCOM (Sant Rohidas Leather Industries & Charmakar Development Corporation Ltd) and Lidkar (Dr Babu Jagjivan Ram Leather Industries Development Corporation Ltd) – the Indian government organisations focussed on safeguarding, promoting, and developing the Indian leather industry and heritage of Kolhapuri Chappals.

The Prada Group is also setting up a training programme dedicated to artisans from the eight districts in India where Kolhapuri chappals are traditionally manufactured. The programme is designed to strengthen design and technical skills, enabling artisans to create products that meet evolving market needs, while ensuring the continued relevance of this traditional craft.

This initiative, which will be fully funded by Prada, including through the proceeds of the sale of the limited-edition sandal collection, reflects the Group’s long-standing commitment to reinvest in education and culture. The programme will run over three years in structured six-month modules, reaching a total of 180 artisans over the period. 

Applications are open to artisans aged 18 to 45, with the programme developed in collaboration with LIDCOM and LIDKAR, and also in partnership with leading design institutes—the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) and the Karnataka Institute of Leather & Fashion Technology (KILT)—where the training courses will be delivered. “This collaboration will enable sustainable global positioning of our traditional craftsmanship, fostering cross-cultural design dialogue and long-term value for artisans,” says LIDCOM Managing Director Prerna Deshbhratar.

“This collaboration with the Prada Group represents a significant step toward elevating Karnataka’s traditional craftsmanship to the global stage, while reinforcing our commitment to artisans' welfare through responsible and sustainable CSR initiatives,” Lidkar Managing Director K.M. Vasundhara adds.

The programme is expected to bring together design fundamentals, digital skills, and an understanding of trends and market needs, guiding participants through the complete journey: from product development to market readiness. A strong emphasis is placed on practical learning, with dedicated studios at each institute equipped with the necessary tools and materials to support hands-on training.

The first programme will commence in June, with applications for the initial 30 seats (15 at NIFT and 15 at KILT) open in May 2026 on the institutes’ websites. At the end of each six-month module, select participants will have the opportunity to continue their training at the Prada Group Academy in Italy, where they will develop their craftsmanship and technical expertise while learning directly from the Group’s Maestros.

“Education is a fundamental pillar in ensuring that craftsmanship remains a living practice. With this training programme, we are translating a shared cultural dialogue into a concrete opportunity for learning and growth. Supporting artisans through structured training means safeguarding knowledge, strengthening local communities, and ensuring that traditional craftsmanship continues to evolve and thrive,” says Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group's Head of Corporate Social Responsibility.

For KILT this will be a significant milestone. “This collaboration will empower our artisans with exposure to international design sensibilities, evolving market demands, and cutting-edge technologies. It is a step towards bridging traditional craftsmanship with global excellence, ensuring our artisans remain competitive, innovative, and future-ready,” says KILT director Siddalingappa B. Pujari.

According to NIFT Director General Tanu Kashyap, Prada’s initiative to reach out to Kolhapuri artisans and collaborate with NIFT, marks a transformative step in taking this GI-tagged craft to the global stage. “It is time that Indian traditional crafts take their rightful place on the world stage and being acknowledged as the new luxury. The initiative will empower artisans to carry forward the legacy of handcrafted and handmade traditions into the commercial arena, representing the true essence of sustainable and heritage fashion,” says Kashyap.

Prada’s move may have begun as a response to criticism, but it has evolved into something far more significant: a blueprint for how global luxury brands can engage with traditional crafts responsibly. By moving beyond inspiration to attribution, collaboration, investment and skill development, the label has acknowledged that heritage is not merely an aesthetic to be borrowed, but a living legacy sustained by communities of artisans. If followed with sincerity and consistency, this initiative could mark the beginning of a more equitable relationship between international fashion houses and the makers whose craftsmanship has long enriched their creations. For Kolhapuri chappals, and for Indian artisans at large, that recognition is long overdue.