From sorrow to stitches: Rahul Mishra’s couture weaves memories, art, and innovation

Last December was a month of sorrow for India’s leading fashion designer, Rahul Mishra. It was then that his father departed from this world forever. As he performed his father’s last rites on the banks of a river, memories of their time together flashed through his mind, frame by frame. Amidst these reflections, a flock of ravens kept flying in and out, eating from his hand as he offered rice balls as part of the rituals.

For a creative person, inspiration can come from anywhere, at any time. As Mishra carried out the final rites, images of his childhood and moments spent with his father filled his thoughts. Somewhere along the line, the presence of the ravens left an indelible impression on him. In one of his couture pieces showcased at the last Paris Couture Week, ravens made a striking appearance.

Some of these couture pieces, along with his interpretation of couture as an art form, are currently on display in the plush corridors of Gio World Plaza, Mumbai.

According to Mishra, there is no real difference between haute couture and conventional visual art forms. “A piece of couture is a work of art, so there is no distinction there,” he says. “It represents the highest form of creativity for a fashion designer, and Paris Couture Week is the ultimate platform to showcase that creativity. I draw inspiration from many things—skyscrapers, forests, flowers, the environment, insects like dragonflies, and even the crows that appeared in flocks during my father’s last rites. Most people frown upon these birds, but I found inspiration in them.”

Mishra, who launched his sustainable luxury label AFEW (an acronym for Air, Fire, Earth, and Water) in 2023 in a 60:40 partnership with Reliance Brands Ltd—alongside his eponymous couture label established in 2006—is committed to promoting traditional textiles and crafts through innovation for the modern global woman.

Complementing his haute couture creations are art pieces that Mishra has experimented with as an extension of his creative thinking. “Couture is all about art and creativity, so I thought, why not channel that into different forms of artistic expression?” he says. “When it comes to the creative side, I give it my full attention. For a creator, business isn’t the first thing that comes to mind—that's a separate domain handled by different professionals.”

True to his philosophy, Mishra has focused on transforming his creative vision into groundbreaking innovations. At his debut showcase in 2006 at Lakmé Fashion Week in Mumbai, he chose to present a collection crafted from Kerala handlooms. He traveled to the state, spent time with the weavers of Balaramapuram—a small village near Thiruvananthapuram—and developed fabrics to suit his vision. He then transformed these traditional fabrics, typically seen in Kerala’s festive dhotis (mundus) and saris with golden borders, into contemporary Western silhouettes. The collection instantly caught the attention of editors and buyers. “I was born in Uttar Pradesh, but I was born as a fashion designer in Kerala,” he reflects.

Since then, Mishra’s collections have consistently stood out for their uniqueness. One season, he presented an entirely reversible collection that transformed both inside and out; another saw fabrics woven with wool and leather. He has introduced innovations in Chanderi and Maheshwari silks, among other handwoven textiles. With his ability to craft ‘pretty’ yet statement-making designs, he has risen to become one of the most sought-after fashion designers in this part of the world. “I’ve always loved working with weavers and promoting them, while also celebrating the diverse textiles of India. My early days with the master weavers of Kerala are something I will never forget.”

Looking back on his nearly two-decade-long journey in fashion, Rahul Mishra has proven that a young boy with little to his name—starting out with just one master tailor and two sewing machines after graduating from the National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad—could become a globally recognized designer. He won the prestigious Woolmark International Award in 2014 for his innovative designs and recently collaborated with the Italian luxury brand Tod’s to create limited-edition embroidered footwear, which was sold worldwide, among other high-profile collaborations.

As we walk through Jio World Plaza, taking in his couture creations and art pieces, one question lingers: Are these artistic endeavours purely a passion project, or will he eventually pursue them commercially? That’s something only time will tell!